We often get questions about the differences between oil and water coatings, particularly which is more resilient or can hold up to dog claws and other damage. Both coatings are equally as resilient in our opinion, but neither can hold up to high psi events such as large dogs, high heels, or dragging heavy objects. This is particularly true with softer lumbers such as Pine, Fir, or Ash. To protect your floors from that type of damage, we recommend common sense solutions such as throw rugs, dog gates, and furniture sliders. When choosing your type of coating, we recommend considering the site conditions of your job, the look you’re going for on your floor, and budgetary concerns. Each finish has its pros and cons in this regard. Below are the general differences between the properties of the two coatings and their relative dry and cure times, with a quick start at the top and details below.

Oil based relative to water is:

Higher VOC
Gives an amber hue to the wood (it is not considered a pigmented stain though)
Takes twice the time to dry (8 hours vs. 4)
Is less expensive (generally by $.55 sf)

Water based finish relative to oil is:

Lower VOC (a “greener” product with fewer fumes)
Clear drying and does not give an amber hue
Requires that you choose a sealer color - Here are the choices. In most case we use Classicseal.
Drys in ½ the time
Is more expensive (generally ads $.55 sf)

Oil based finish

The most common type of finish is a “natural oil” finish which involves a wood sealer and two coats of an oil based polyurethane. This type of coating gives an amber hue to the wood. Here's an example on Oak. After sanding we will apply the sealer and a coat of polyurethane (both the same day). Once applied, this coating will need to dry undisturbed for 8 hours. This type of polyurethane is very fumy and has a strong odor while it dries. If we’re using a pigmented stain, the stain serves as the sealer and the sealer does not need to be used. Sometimes we’ll need to let the pigmented stain dry overnight before applying the polyurethane. This will add an extra day to the process.

Below are common schedule scenarios for oil coatings: (Note: the schedules below apply only after sanding has been finished, these may actually begin several days into the job)

Sealer, oil, oil

The schedule for a sealer and oil based polyurethane floor may look like:

Day 1 - natural sealer, first coat of polyurethane
Day 2 - buff and apply final coat of polyurethane

Note: this doesn’t included sanding time, this applies to is the first day of coating

Stain, oil, oil

The schedule for a pigmented stain and oil based polyurethane floor may look like:

Day 1 - pigmented stain
Day 2 - first coat of polyurethane
Day 3 - buff and final coat of polyurethane

Note: this doesn’t included sanding time, this applies to is the first day of coating

Please note that during this time the house may be considered unable to be occupied. Sleeping preparations must be made in advance for this. If you or your family are sensitive to fumes, or if the layout of the home requires that you walk on the floor to get through the house, you may want to consider alternative sleeping arrangements. Pets must also be kept away from the floor during this time.  If this is prohibitively difficult, a water a based coating may be a better option.

 

Dry & cure times - Oil Based

Drying time: The floor may be walked on after 8 hours, and furniture replaced after 24 hours, but the floor is susceptible to scuffing or marring prior to completion of the curing time.

Curing: The curing process takes approximately 14 days. Do not replace walk-off mats or throw rugs until finish is fully cured. Do not drag or slide furniture. Do not clean with water or detergent during the curing process. Use only a dry cloth for cleaning during the first two weeks.

Bona recommends using their Bona care cleaning systems which can be purchased at Home depot or Menard’s and generally consists of a microfiber cloth and wood safe spray cleaners. Additionally, the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) recommends the following care tips to care for your floor.

Water based Finish

Another common type of finish is a water based finish. This is typically used when dry times need to be reduced, fumes are a concern, or the client would like a lighter looking floor.  Water based finish dries clear and doesn't amber like an oil based. Here's an example of water based on Oak.

Sometimes, to have the benefits of the water based finish and the amber color of an oil based finish, we’ll use a combination of the oil based sealer or pigmented stain, and water based finish for the protective top coats. Below are common schedule scenarios for water coatings: (Note: the schedules below apply only after sanding has been finished, these may actually begin several days into the job)

Sealer, water, water

The schedule for a sealer and water based finished floor with water based sealer may look like:
Day 1 - water based sealer, first coat of polyurethane
Day 2 - final coat of polyurethane (sometimes this can be done on day 1 as well)
 

Pigmented stain or oil based sealer, water, water 

The schedule for a pigmented stain (or oil based sealer) and water based finished floor may look like:

Day 1 - pigmented stain (or oil sealer)
Day 2 - first coat of polyurethane
Day 3 - final coat of polyurethane (sometimes this can be applied on day 2)

While a water based finish dries, it’s odor is relatively inert and other portions of the house can generally be easily tolerated. Because of it’s rapid dry time, clients can usually get back into the house with stocking feet within 4 hours of application.

 

Dry & cure times - Water Based

Drying and cure times will vary depending on the type of product we have used on your floor. Many times, to facilitate drying, we will increase the heating temperature of your home, run dehumidifiers, or increase the the function of your central air conditioning. This is a very important step because if conditions are too humid or too cool, the coatings will not dry and and adhesion problems may result.

Dry time: The floor may be walked on after 2-3 hours, and furniture replaced after 72 hours, but the floor is susceptible to scuffing or marring prior to completion of the curing time. Work may resume during this time but take care to protect the floor. Avoid throw rugs during this time. 

Cure Time: The curing process takes approximately 3 days (80% after 1 day, 100% after 3 days). Do not replace walk-off mats or throw rugs until finish is fully cured. Do not drag or slide furniture. Do not clean with water or detergent during the curing process. Use only a dry cloth for cleaning during the first two weeks.

Read full documentation from Bona

Please note:
To avoid raising dust during dry times, we generally do not run fans.

We will also close all windows. Although the fumes will be more concentrated, this prevents dust and rain from blowing in from outside and allows us to manage the temperature and humidity of the job site.
Because we work our way out backwards and need light during this process, often times we cannot turn off the lights and they’ll need to remain on until the coating is dry.
These are the general guidelines for timing. Note: these times may vary based on temperature and humidity.